The Other Texas: A Wilder Texas Road Trip from Fort Worth to Bluff Dale
The Other Texas: A Wilder Texas Road Trip from Fort Worth to Bluff Dale
When most people think of Texas, they might picture cowboys, cattle, huge steaks, country music and lively honky-tonks.
And, of course, you can find all of that and it’s great.
Our recent trip to Texas took us to Austin and Fort Worth, where we enjoyed the music, food, bright lights, bars and famous cowboy culture (view the blog here). But some of my favourite memories came when we got away from the cities and experienced a much quieter, more rural side of Texas.
Welcome to rural Texas
For the second part of our Texas adventure, we were lucky enough to stay with friends in the Bluff Dale area, right in the Texas Hill Country.
And this is one of the things I love about travel – the people you meet, the connections you make and the unexpected opportunities that can come from them.
Having seasoned locals as guides isn't necessarily something that's available to the average visitor, so what can you do if you don't happen to have friends in rural Texas?
Well, you can create your own adventure.
The Hill Country is reachable in just over an hour by car from Fort Worth. As you progress, driving becomes a much more relaxed affair and, where possible, taking the backroads is recommended and makes for a much more interesting drive.
You'll notice as you move further into the countryside how much the space opens up – and so does that big ol' Texas sky.
For our journey, it was mid-September, and Texas was still in the middle of a long, rain-parched, sun-scorched summer. Something you may need to consider if you are sensitive to heat or plan to spend lots of time outside, away from the bliss of air-conditioned cars, shops and restaurants.
The ordinarily green fields were now more straw-like in colour. But as a sun lover, I'm happy, and the landscape we passed showcased ranches, horses and wildlife. Passing through smaller towns, we looked forward to experiencing some good old-fashioned Southern hospitality for ourselves.
Granbury: a little bit of unexpected Germany
Our hosts were located in rural Bluff Dale and, after a morning spent shopping, we were hungry. Granbury, one of our planned stops, was nearby and came highly recommended.
A small, pretty town with bags of history and charm, we parked centrally and free of charge near the historic Granbury Square in the heart of the town.
Immediately I noticed beautifully preserved buildings, independent shops, restaurants and cafés. There's also Lake Granbury nearby, so you can easily combine exploring the historic centre with time around the water.
After a quick look at some of the most beautiful shops and being short on time, we headed into Ketzler's Schnitzel Haus and Bier Garten.
A traditional German eatery in the heart of Granbury.
We'd already eaten a lot of delicious Texan and famous Tex-Mex cuisine and thought we'd give an unexpected German late lunch a try.
Understanding 'everything is bigger in Texas', including food portions, we decided to share their fabulous Bratwurst Sampling Plate.
Five bratwurst sausages, fried potatoes and sauerkraut, accompanied by a fresh-baked pretzel and beer cheese for dipping, was more than enough for two to share!
But what, you might ask, is a Bier Keller/Garden doing in the middle of rural Texas Hill Country?
German immigration to Texas goes back to the 1830s, and Germans became one of the state's largest European immigrant groups. They established communities across Central and Hill Country Texas, bringing food, beer, architecture and traditions with them.
When exploring the Hill Country, you'll see this German influence, particularly in the aptly named towns of Fredericksburg, New Braunfels and Boerne.
Whilst Granbury didn't feel particularly German, its historic architecture, beautiful town square and fantastic retro picture house are definitely worth a look.
Or perhaps consider this lively place as a base when exploring this part of Texas.
Get off the main road
Now back on the road, taking the back roads, we were on our way to Bluff Dale.
One of my biggest recommendations if you want to experience the less polished side of Texas is don't be afraid to get off the main road.
Some of our favourite experiences came from driving through the countryside without rushing from one attraction to the next.
Bluff Dale is exactly the type of place you could drive straight past thinking it's simply rural residences. But looking around, there are hidden gems.
Think rolling hills, a wine-producing vineyard, prehistoric remains and bluffs.
Bluffs, you ask? The 'Bluff' in Bluff Dale comes from its landscape, the limestone 'bluffs' which are the steep rocky outcrops or cliffs that overlook a river, valley, lake or lower ground.
It's part of what gives the countryside here its rugged, hilly appearance – and hints at the dinosaur presence of its past.
In this case, the Paluxy River, Dinosaur Valley and the limestone footprints that form part of its history.
Greenwood Saloon and a proper Texas biker bar
Later that evening, more history in the form of the old-school live-music venue Greenwood Saloon.
Opening only Thursday to Sunday, it's the type of place that gives you that real drinking-saloon, almost-sawdust-on-the-floor vibe, but with a huge warm Texan welcome and some great live music.
We sat outdoors in the warm summer air and felt like we belonged in situ.
After a late night, brunch was calling, and again, to no ordinary spot.
This time, a proper Texas biker bar.
After all, these twisty country roads call to owners of transport on two wheels.
Bar/restaurant Loco Coyote was exactly the sort of place we hoped we'd find.
With shiny choppers and cruisers parked outside, a cold beer in the sun and sign me up for the food!
BBQ, fried catfish, USDA Prime steak and all the generous portions you would expect.
Not tried a spicy Bloody Mary? It kicks like a long horn!
All served with a side of that legendary Texan hospitality.
If you want to experience Texas beyond the big tourist destinations, seek out places like this.
Getting off-road in rural Texas
In between the Texan hospitality, one of the things we were lucky enough to do with our friends was go out on side-by-sides – off-road vehicles.
This was one of those experiences that you simply can't replicate by hiring a normal car and driving from one tourist attraction to another.
We headed out into the countryside, got properly off the beaten track and had a brilliant time exploring the terrain.
Now, we were able to do this because we were with friends who had access to the vehicles.
But you don't need to know someone in Texas to have an off-road adventure.
There are off-road parks in the area where members of the public can bring or hire suitable off-road vehicles, including 4x4s, ATVs and side-by-sides.
One place worth looking at is Brazos River Off-Road Adventure Park near Millsap, where visitors can tackle a variety of off-road terrain.
It's a completely different kind of day out – and one I'd definitely consider adding to a Texas road trip if you're looking for something more adventurous.
Just make sure you check the current vehicle, safety and booking requirements before you go.
Ten places to visit
If you're planning a Texas road trip through this part of the state, here are ten places I'd consider adding to the list.
You certainly don't need to visit them all – think of them as ideas to dip into depending on your route and how much time you have.
1. Bluff Dale Vineyards
A lovely way to experience the countryside around Bluff Dale, with vineyard views and a completely different pace from the cities.
2. Greenwood Saloon
For live music, a proper local atmosphere and a taste of the Texas dance-hall tradition. Check opening days before travelling.
3. Dinosaur Valley State Park
One for anyone fascinated by dinosaurs – and even if you're not, walking where dinosaurs once walked is pretty special.
4. Fossil Rim Wildlife Centre
A wildlife experience near Glen Rose where you can get out into the countryside and see animals in a much more open setting.
5. Historic Granbury Square
A great place to wander, browse the shops and stop for something to eat or drink.
6. Bluff Dale Suspension Bridge
A small piece of local history and another excuse to get out into the countryside around Bluff Dale.
7. Historic Downtown Hico
Hico has plenty of old-Texas charm and makes a good stop if you're exploring further west.
8. Stephenville
Known as the Cowboy Capital of the World, Stephenville is a good place to soak up more of the area's ranching and western culture.
9. Big Rocks Park, Glen Rose
Huge granite rocks beside the Paluxy River make this an easy and unusual stop when you're exploring Glen Rose.
10. Lake Granbury
If you want to slow things down even further, Lake Granbury offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy the water and surrounding countryside.
Where should you stay?
If you're planning your own trip around this part of Texas, I'd consider two very different approaches.
Stay in Granbury
Granbury makes a great base if you want a mixture of history, restaurants, bars and things to do in the evening, while still being close enough to the countryside for day trips.
You can spend the day exploring ranch country and come back to somewhere comfortable for dinner.
It's also a good option if you're travelling as a couple and don't necessarily want a full-on ranch holiday.
Stay somewhere more rural
If you really want to get away from it all, look at ranch accommodation around Bluff Dale and the surrounding area.
Places such as The Hideaway Ranch & Refuge offer a much more secluded experience, with cabins and the opportunity to immerse yourself in the countryside. Imagine waking up surrounded by countryside rather than looking out of a hotel window at a car park.
That's the Texas I think many visitors are actually searching for.
You don't have to rough it
One thing I'd stress is that experiencing the wild side of Texas doesn't necessarily mean sleeping in a tent or giving up your creature comforts.
There are ranch stays ranging from rustic and traditional to much more luxurious properties.
A possible “wilder Texas” road trip
If I were planning this experience for someone visiting Texas, I might suggest something along the lines of:
Fort Worth → Granbury → Glen Rose → Bluff Dale → Stephenville → Hico → rural ranch stay → horse riding → off-road adventure → Loco Coyote → Greenwood Saloon
But this isn't a set itinerary, and it certainly isn't meant to suggest that this is exactly the route we followed.
It's more of a starting point.
You could take a completely different route, spend longer in one place, leave something out or add something else entirely.
That's the beauty of this part of Texas. It's the countryside, it's relaxed and it's flexible.
You can explore Granbury's history, ride horses, head out into the countryside, try an off-road adventure, eat enormous portions of Texas food and finish an evening listening to local musicians.
Or you could simply find a road that looks interesting and see where it takes you.
Our own trip was a mixture of planned stops, recommendations and experiences that came about because we were staying with friends.
We were incredibly lucky that our friends gave us access to experiences that visitors wouldn't necessarily find on a standard itinerary.
But there are businesses and ranches that allow visitors to experience many of those same things.
Planning your own Texas adventure?
This is exactly the sort of trip I love putting together.
Whether you want a package holiday, a bucket-list experience, a cruise or a road trip built completely around you, I can help create the itinerary.
Tell me what you love, what you don't, how you like to travel and what you want to experience, and I'll help put the pieces together.
Your trip, your way.
Go beyond the obvious Texas
I loved Austin and Fort Worth.
I loved the music, the food, the bars, the Stockyards and all the things that make Texas such a fascinating destination.
But getting out into the countryside gave me something completely different. It felt like we were experiencing Texas rather than simply sightseeing in it.
So if you're planning a trip to the Lone Star State, don't just stick to the obvious cities.
Hire a car, take the back roads, find a local saloon, eat the Texas BBQ and Tex-Mex and spend a night somewhere you can look up and see nothing but stars.
That's the Texas I'd go back for.
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Useful links & further information
Where we ate
Ketzler’s Schnitzel Haus & Biergarten – Granbury
Ketzler’s Schnitzel Haus & Biergarten
Loco Coyote Grill – Glen Rose
Loco Coyote Grill
Accommodation to consider
The Hideaway Ranch & Refuge – Bluff Dale
The Hideaway Ranch & Refuge
Skyview Ranch Retreat – Bluff Dale
Skyview Ranch Retreat
Rough Creek Lodge, Ranch & Resort – Glen Rose
Rough Creek Lodge, Ranch & Resort
Granbury hotels, B&Bs and cabins
Visit Granbury – Where to Stay
Historic Midland Hotel – Hico
Historic Midland Hotel
Places to visit
Bluff Dale Vineyards
Greenwood Saloon
Dinosaur Valley State Park
Fossil Rim Wildlife Center
Historic Granbury
Historic Hico
Stephenville
Bluff Dale Suspension Bridge
Big Rocks Park
Lake Granbury
Off-road adventure
Brazos River Off-Road Adventure Park
Brazos River Off-Road Adventure Park
The Travel Edit by Caroline
Bespoke travel planning for package holidays, cruises, bucket-list experiences and tailor-made road trips.
I create bespoke holidays for curious travelers who value personalised service and unforgettable moments.